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of North America

for all year Mazda cars, SUVs and trucks
Established in 1988

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Chicago, Illinois 60640
Phone/Text: 773-769-7396  



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Items to Get Great Paint


Please note: Questions and answers are provided for information and advice purposes. No liability either express or implied is assumed by reliance on the information presented either by the writers or the MC.

Some or all of the below is from our Facebook group page at and this is just a part of what appears there and in the member magazine.

Also be sure to see our Facebook group for immediate help from fellow members.


Though not many of us will have the opportunity to load up the paint gun and start spraying, itís important to know how a great finish is achieved. This knowledge can help you choose a restoration shop be asking specific questions, aid in discussions with your current restoration shop, or at least let you know why the bill for labor and materials is higher than it would be for a basic respray.

What follows are not basic steps but additional steps and processes that when combined with the basics will create a stellar paint finish for one and two stage paint systems, not multistage candies and pearls.

1. A sealer primer shall be applied over the entire car before the multiple coats of epoxy primer are applied to be block sanded. The sealer primer seals the body from contaminants.

2. The epoxy primer must be the same color on all the panels. Gray and red cannot be mixed and matched on different panels. Paint is translucent, so with lighter hues, the difference in primer color underneath it will affect the color uniformity of the final finish.

3. Using tintable primer with color added to it so that it is close to the body color which will enhance the depth of the paint.

4. It is important to remember to use the same type sanding boards and techniques on the doors that were used on the other panels of the car.

5. Many shops wet sand the primer up to 400 grit sandpaper before sealing and painting.

6. With metallic colors, the car should be painted with the doors and bolt-on body parts on so that the finish is seamless from the outer to the inner panels, like door jambs.

7. Any air dams, spoilers and other add ons should be painted the same time as the rest of the car as any differences in humidity and air pressure can affect the finish.

8. On any flexible pieces, a flex agent should be added to the primer and clear, but not to the color.

9. On a two-stage (base/clear) system should walk around the car after each coat dries and use 1500 grit sandpaper to nip down any inconsistencies caused by dust, dirt and so on.

10. For added depth, 10 to 15 percent clear can be mixed into the last two coats of base clear.

11. After a 24 hour curing time, the entire car should be wet sanded with a 2500 grit sandpaper.

12. Use a six grit wet sanding process with only the last coat of clear being the heavy one. The procedure begins with a aggressive 800 grit sandpaper and then moves through progressive finer grit sandpapers: 1000, 1500, 2000, 2500 and ending with 3000.

13. After wet sanding, let the car sit for another few days before polishing out to let out solvents, then 3M polishing compound is applied using a wool pad on a power polisher. Next comes 3M Finessing it using the polisher and finally 3M Imperial Hand Glaze with the polisher. Next, the body, is power washed to remove the material residue from all the crevices, followed by a normal soap and water wash. Lastly, Imperial Hand Glaze is applied by hand again. A waffle foam pad is used on black paint to avoid swirl marks. After all the power polishing steps, swirl remover is used on darker colors and black before applying the hand glaze.



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